(August Man, July 2010)
It wasn’t till I got a first glimpse of Padang, a couple thousand feet above land that I felt a bit restless. I could have done this in Malaysia, but with the surf in our nation being seasonal (5 months in a year, during the eastern monsoon), this appeared to be the next best option. I could have also taken up lessons in Bali- the surfing mecca as regarded by many, but that was just my problem with it, it is regarded by too many. I planned this alone, this peeking start to self discovery, but coincidentally, I was joined by 2 acquaintances-Lynn, a girl I knew from primary school and Amran, a friend of a friend to whom I was introduced to a few years back. It’s funny to think how all 3 of us rarely crossed paths and here we were, 10 minutes away from landing in Minangkabau International Airport. It was also endearingly funny to think how none was more excited than our instructors- Leh and Simon, to which, the latter has set his foot in Padang countless amounts of time, yet feels no less disheartened.
It takes about an hour to get here from LCCT, though with the time difference, you actually arrive the same time you had left. We were met by Dewi, the wife and co-owner of the guest house we were making the next few nights home. Simon commented on how tanned she looked. “Surfing-3 times a week”, she answered with a smile and elaborately detailed to us how amazing the swell was the day before.
Padang looks sparse from inside the van and reminders of last year’s tragic earthquake can still be seen throughout. I had learnt much later that Dewi’s father’s house was completely ruined to a rubble, though thankfully nobody was hurt. But people here remain unbelievably optimistic and Bob (Dewi’s husband) commented that they can pretty much attest to how strong an earthquake is going to be and don’t immediately go ape crazy at any sort of tremor. There is a sign at the guesthouse which reads, “If an earthquake happens and you are on the first floor, run to the roof. If you’re on the ground floor, run out” and another one which said “In times of earthquake, RUN!”. We were on the first floor.
It was close to sundown when we made our first trip out to Pantai Air Manis, with boards secured atop Bob’s SUV. Lynn decided to opt this one out, saying that it was too late and she just wanted to chill for now. I was eager, though it was hard to read if Amran shared my enthusiasm. Air Manis is a good 30 minutes drive up a hill and back down, passing through a kampong. The beach is rightfully their land, so any outsiders getting there have to pay a “toll” of some sorts, more as a sign of respect and appreciation.
It was approaching half past 5 when we had our first introduction. There was hardly anyone out apart from some local surfers, so we felt like we owned the beach. Air Manis’s sand is black, and it isn’t exactly clinically clean, though the combination of idyllic weather and workable swells made for an awesome welcome. But it’ll still be a while till we were allowed even anywhere near a wave. For now, we had to learn how to pop-up and stay popped up. The sun was dipping behind a nearby island and literally coloured everything in its path a beautiful shade of golden. I saw Amran’s silhouette not far off from me as the waves breaking on him looked like a million shards of amber.
It takes about an hour to get here from LCCT, though with the time difference, you actually arrive the same time you had left. We were met by Dewi, the wife and co-owner of the guest house we were making the next few nights home. Simon commented on how tanned she looked. “Surfing-3 times a week”, she answered with a smile and elaborately detailed to us how amazing the swell was the day before.
Padang looks sparse from inside the van and reminders of last year’s tragic earthquake can still be seen throughout. I had learnt much later that Dewi’s father’s house was completely ruined to a rubble, though thankfully nobody was hurt. But people here remain unbelievably optimistic and Bob (Dewi’s husband) commented that they can pretty much attest to how strong an earthquake is going to be and don’t immediately go ape crazy at any sort of tremor. There is a sign at the guesthouse which reads, “If an earthquake happens and you are on the first floor, run to the roof. If you’re on the ground floor, run out” and another one which said “In times of earthquake, RUN!”. We were on the first floor.
It was close to sundown when we made our first trip out to Pantai Air Manis, with boards secured atop Bob’s SUV. Lynn decided to opt this one out, saying that it was too late and she just wanted to chill for now. I was eager, though it was hard to read if Amran shared my enthusiasm. Air Manis is a good 30 minutes drive up a hill and back down, passing through a kampong. The beach is rightfully their land, so any outsiders getting there have to pay a “toll” of some sorts, more as a sign of respect and appreciation.
It was approaching half past 5 when we had our first introduction. There was hardly anyone out apart from some local surfers, so we felt like we owned the beach. Air Manis’s sand is black, and it isn’t exactly clinically clean, though the combination of idyllic weather and workable swells made for an awesome welcome. But it’ll still be a while till we were allowed even anywhere near a wave. For now, we had to learn how to pop-up and stay popped up. The sun was dipping behind a nearby island and literally coloured everything in its path a beautiful shade of golden. I saw Amran’s silhouette not far off from me as the waves breaking on him looked like a million shards of amber.
When surfers and divers meet
Dinner time was particularly eventful as all 11 of us from the guesthouse would descend to a restaurant like the hoi polloi-13, if you include Bob and Dewi. Padang has exquisite diving sites and a group of 6 divers had arrived earlier than us. I relished the evenings as it was probably the only time we would all congregate in merriment and exchange stories. And it wasn’t just the stories that I enjoy, but the whole range of people I would never have met had I not joined this trip. It was quite a ruckus having us anywhere and Clive, one of the two Brits in the diving party, was such good fun to be around after he’s had a few whiskeys.
After dinner one night, Simon insisted that myself, Amran and Leh experience a “blue taxi”. He wasn’t going to divulge anything more, so we followed blindly. Bob parked his car a few yards away from his house and switched off his lights as he asked to simply stand by the side of road. Not more than 5 seconds of standing there, a blue taxi stopped by Leh. Leh then pointed to me as neither his nor Amran’s Bahasa Indonesia was up to par. I peeked in and enquired. Let’s just say, it was an offer of the seedy kind that none of us were inclined to accept. I’m sure the reactions on our faces must have been hilarious as I was asked to recount with minute details of what exactly happened several times over, which was then followed by a roar of laughter.
After dinner one night, Simon insisted that myself, Amran and Leh experience a “blue taxi”. He wasn’t going to divulge anything more, so we followed blindly. Bob parked his car a few yards away from his house and switched off his lights as he asked to simply stand by the side of road. Not more than 5 seconds of standing there, a blue taxi stopped by Leh. Leh then pointed to me as neither his nor Amran’s Bahasa Indonesia was up to par. I peeked in and enquired. Let’s just say, it was an offer of the seedy kind that none of us were inclined to accept. I’m sure the reactions on our faces must have been hilarious as I was asked to recount with minute details of what exactly happened several times over, which was then followed by a roar of laughter.
So you’re a regular, no wait, a goofy
One thing I have to hand it to the Indonesians is that they have a knack for making everything delicious. It may not necessarily be healthy what with the mountains of MSG they tip into most everything, but it will most certainly leave you wanting for more. If only half boiled eggs were topped off with chicken soup when I was growing up, I’d have knocked back tonnes of it.
We intended to start at Air Manis earlier, but as is with most things that rely on other people, we arrived about an hour later than planned. Our very large beginner boards looked slightly more garish in the light of day, standing at 8 ft and bright orange like a tangerine. It didn’t help either that Amran’s rash vest and mine were a complementary shade of red, easily spotted from any point out in the ocean almost screaming out “Beginner!”. Carrying it to the water was another issue, as it was too large to physically hold in one arm. So no, we weren’t exactly the epitome of “cool” surfer dude and dudettes, traipsing around the beach, especially not when Lynn resorted to carrying it above her head. There is a reason to its size though, because a larger and longer board provides more buoyancy which in turn will make it easier for you to stand and find your feet. “It’s not just a question of a beginner board, but more on your style of surfing” Leh explained to me. Some surfers stay on a longboard because they prefer the easy, fun ride of surfing, whilst others prefer the shortboard for speed and manoeuvrability. “Most beginners are so consumed with wanting to look “cool” that they forego the advantages of a longboard completely”, he added.
We tried popping up again on dry land and everything went swimmingly well until Amran noticed that I was popping up, facing the left- which would make me a goofy, as my right foot was leading. This was all fine and dandy except in all the times that I have ever engaged in surfing before, my left foot was ahead. We tried out in the water anyway, just to be sure, only to discover that when I finally stood up, my left foot was ahead, which would then make me a regular. I switched the leash to my right foot, but like my left, it was ahead when I stood up. Was I just uncomfortable with a bound ankle or truly an ambidextrous glider? “You could be destined for a longboard bro” Simon said with a smile because longboarders have to able to switch between the two.
We intended to start at Air Manis earlier, but as is with most things that rely on other people, we arrived about an hour later than planned. Our very large beginner boards looked slightly more garish in the light of day, standing at 8 ft and bright orange like a tangerine. It didn’t help either that Amran’s rash vest and mine were a complementary shade of red, easily spotted from any point out in the ocean almost screaming out “Beginner!”. Carrying it to the water was another issue, as it was too large to physically hold in one arm. So no, we weren’t exactly the epitome of “cool” surfer dude and dudettes, traipsing around the beach, especially not when Lynn resorted to carrying it above her head. There is a reason to its size though, because a larger and longer board provides more buoyancy which in turn will make it easier for you to stand and find your feet. “It’s not just a question of a beginner board, but more on your style of surfing” Leh explained to me. Some surfers stay on a longboard because they prefer the easy, fun ride of surfing, whilst others prefer the shortboard for speed and manoeuvrability. “Most beginners are so consumed with wanting to look “cool” that they forego the advantages of a longboard completely”, he added.
We tried popping up again on dry land and everything went swimmingly well until Amran noticed that I was popping up, facing the left- which would make me a goofy, as my right foot was leading. This was all fine and dandy except in all the times that I have ever engaged in surfing before, my left foot was ahead. We tried out in the water anyway, just to be sure, only to discover that when I finally stood up, my left foot was ahead, which would then make me a regular. I switched the leash to my right foot, but like my left, it was ahead when I stood up. Was I just uncomfortable with a bound ankle or truly an ambidextrous glider? “You could be destined for a longboard bro” Simon said with a smile because longboarders have to able to switch between the two.
Catching my first wave
After having happily ridden white water and small waves, Simon and Leh thought we were prepared for the line-up to catch our first real wave. We paddled quite far in and I knew this because as we were tipped upside down in the water, as part of the exercise on how to immerge safely, I couldn’t touch the sea bed. We sat at the edge of our boards, patiently waiting for the opportunistic wave when Leh looked at me to indicate that the incoming one was mine. I turned my board around and lay flat on my belly as he screamed “Paddle!”. I paddled hard and felt the wave lift the tail of my board, but I stood too close to the nose that my board tipped straight into the water as I rolled underneath the break. I fondled for my leash underwater and came back up slowly for air as I saw Simon smiling at me and asking me if I was okay. That was my first wipe-out.
The line-up was getting full of people that I thought it best to paddle further in for a bit until it clears up. Surfing can get very territorial and it is essential that you always respect the locality. The surfers in Air Manis are quite friendly, but it’s wise that you acknowledge their turf, if for nothing, but to build good rapport whilst you’re out in the ocean. I caught one easy wave to shore and when I turned around, I saw what looked like a huge orange sanitary pad flying into the air. It was Lynn’s board and a relatively big wave caught her by surprise. I paddled out to find her laughing her face off, all the while trying to brush the mass of hair covering her face.
I was quite determined to get this by all means necessary and I have the inflamed left rib to prove it. I could see Lynn and Amran moving on the beach by virtue of Amran’s fluorescent vest. I was alone with Leh at the time and we waited until he thought there was a suitable one for me. We saw one forming in the horizon as Leh signalled me to turn around quick. “Paddle!” he screamed as my board lifted off right at the peak of the wave and I was smiling because I was riding it, all the way to the beach. After finishing my first marathon, that was single-handedly, the most amazing feeling in the world. Nobody saw me ride it though, as Leh was behind the break and the rest were too far in. When I finally caught glimpse of Leh, I gave him a thumbs up, and he knew what I meant.
The line-up was getting full of people that I thought it best to paddle further in for a bit until it clears up. Surfing can get very territorial and it is essential that you always respect the locality. The surfers in Air Manis are quite friendly, but it’s wise that you acknowledge their turf, if for nothing, but to build good rapport whilst you’re out in the ocean. I caught one easy wave to shore and when I turned around, I saw what looked like a huge orange sanitary pad flying into the air. It was Lynn’s board and a relatively big wave caught her by surprise. I paddled out to find her laughing her face off, all the while trying to brush the mass of hair covering her face.
I was quite determined to get this by all means necessary and I have the inflamed left rib to prove it. I could see Lynn and Amran moving on the beach by virtue of Amran’s fluorescent vest. I was alone with Leh at the time and we waited until he thought there was a suitable one for me. We saw one forming in the horizon as Leh signalled me to turn around quick. “Paddle!” he screamed as my board lifted off right at the peak of the wave and I was smiling because I was riding it, all the way to the beach. After finishing my first marathon, that was single-handedly, the most amazing feeling in the world. Nobody saw me ride it though, as Leh was behind the break and the rest were too far in. When I finally caught glimpse of Leh, I gave him a thumbs up, and he knew what I meant.
Waving goodbye
We surfed till sundown on the final day. I was going to make the most of it because God knows, when I’ll ever get the chance again. It’s at times like these, when it gets absolutely magical-just you, the waves and pure unadulterated surf, even if I was a rookie. The thing about riding a wave is that it gets totally addictive-you want to do it over and over again and in Padang, it hardly ever gets crowded. At certain times of the day you even feel like you own the beach! I recall starting at 4 pm that afternoon and I lasted till 7, with rashes on my palms and inner thighs from rubbing against the foam board. The sunset, as always was amazing that evening and as I was carrying my gargantuan surfboard to shore, I knew that I wanted this to be a big part of my life. Although surfing was invented purely for fun, it’s more than just a leisurely past time-it’s a way of life to many. It teaches you to be humble, it teaches you to be patient and for some reason, being a surfer instantly connects you with other surfers, like an invisible bond that eliminates all social awkwardness and boundaries. But it wasn’t just the surf that was phenomenal, it was the combination of good company, great food and unforgettable experiences that made it even harder to leave. Holidays always make it difficult for anyone to readjust to their normal routine, but this one proved the hardest as I’m always thinking of the waves and marking suitable dates on my calendar to return. People often ask me how my trip went and I always answer the same way with everyone- “It was too, too awesome”.
No comments:
Post a Comment